Choosing Your Scuba Tanks

This article is intended to serve you on your journey to obtain more knowledge regarding this topic.

When you're zipping through underwater caves, examining lobsters and descending into the depths of the ocean, the last thing you want to worry about is swimming horizontally or potentially running out of air. Choosing the right scuba tanks, fastening them properly and maintaining maximum efficiency will ensure that your diving vacation is awe-inspiring and relaxing. The only thing you should worry about is getting the right photographs to show to land-dwellers!

While buoyancy seems like a simple concept (we add air to our BCD, inhale and float along at what is called "neutral buoyancy"), some novice divers have a hard time maintaining their depth and are constantly fidgeting with the valves and hoses. Sometimes just having the proper tank for your particular diving trip can be a huge help.

For instance, if you're technical diving or taking a long trip that requires multiple cylinders, then aluminum scuba tanks are your best bet. The tank is lightweight, so it's perfect for surface diving but will require you to carry more weights along if you plan on descending to greater depths. Be aware that aluminum scuba tanks are the most popular because of their easy transport. However, many dive shops won't refill an aluminum tank that is more than 15 years old. If you plan to continue your scuba adventures for a long duration, steel scuba tanks can easily last 30 years and will be more worth your while.

When you're diving in cold water with a thermally insulating dive suit, you're better off with a heavier cylinder made of steel. Steel scuba tanks, while they may cost twice as much as aluminum, they are more resistant to dents for those cave dives and resist corrosion for the hardcore divers. A problem with many aluminum tanks is that they can get stripped from screwing on the regulator time and time again. This is not an issue with the steel tank.

Another problem many new divers have with scuba tanks is in the positioning. Did you know that a cylinder placed higher on the back puts a diver in a naturally head-down position? Conversely, a cylinder worn too low will leave divers feet-heavy. You can improve your air consumption by placing the cylinder a little higher, just below the head, so that you are naturally horizontal.

You can purchase tanks at 50, 70.2 and 80 cubic feet levels. New divers are advised to purchase either 71 or 80 because they will likely need more air. Larger scuba tanks are harder to find but can still be found for those going on very long excursions. Auxiliary or pony tanks hold 10-40 cubic feet of air and are strapped onto the larger tank for backup.

Your local dive shop will refill your tank, as needed. Scuba tanks should be hydrostatically tested to check pressure every five years, at minimum -- although many recommend testing it every year. Steel tanks can rust into iron oxide and require slightly more maintenance than aluminum tanks, which can also get aluminum oxide. Remember to keep your tank in a safe place away from fire or temperatures that may exceed 350 Fahrenheit.

That's all the information I have on the subject perhaps you may enjoy reading another article.

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